montreal day 4
I checked out of my hotel in the morning, skipping breakfast again as I only had a few Canadian dollars left and needed to save a few to tip the parking garage valet. I had visited a Canadian grocery store the day before, hoping they would sell some of the same delicacies I’d seen at the Atwater for a lower price, but they didn’t have any. On my way out of Montreal, I stopped at another grocery store, one described in my Lonely Planet guide as “cavernous”, for a second attempt. Cavernous?? Has the author of that guide never been to the U.S.? The store, Provigo, was smallish by my standards, and didn’t have any of the items I was looking for. Also, while attempting to drive there and dealing with the usual city hazards of one-way streets, I’d been taken out of my way and discovered I had almost driven to the Atwater without trying. So I bit the bullet and drove back there, whipping some good ol’ American plastic out of my wallet, and went a little crazy in the gourmet store. Canards au confit, cassoulet, saucisson sec… ooh la la, I had some good meals ahead of me! [dramatic foreshadowing] Or did I? [/dramatic foreshadowing]
Naturally, the highway I needed to take upon exiting Montreal on my way back to the U.S. was closed. Why does this always happen to me?? Fortunately, the U.S. is kinda big and therefore hard to miss. Just drive south and you’ll run into it.
I had carefully hidden my pastis in my suitcase and was mentally prepared for the border-crossing question “Do you have any alcohol or tobacco?” Yes, that’s right, I smuggled! I shirked a tariff!! Come and get me, coppers!!! Unfortunately, I was ignorant of other regulations and wasn’t quick-witted enough to lie when necessary.
The border guard headed in the U.S. direction was a young American man, who asked the obligatory questions perfunctorily. “Coming from?” “Headed to?” “Purpose of trip?” (I wonder if anyone ever actually answers that question “to plant a bomb”; honestly, why do they bother?) “Buy anything?” Why yes, actually, yes I did. “Food”, I replied. “What kinda food?” “Ummmm… duck.” “Duck?!” the guard replied, sounding surprised. I’ll bet he’s never eaten anything other than beef, pork and chicken in his good wholesome American beefsteak life. “Well, it’s in a jar!”, I replied. “What else?” he asked, with increasing suspicion. Feeling vaguely guilty for no apparent reason, I sputtered “Saucisson sec?” The guard’s eyes bugged slightly. “What’s that?” “It’s like Italian dry salami…. there’s not a RULE against that, is there?” “Well, I don’t know, I just mostly deal with immigration and stuff; let me get the health inspector (I can’t remember the exact term he used). Pull over, please.”
Feeling embarrassed and ashamed for my audacity at buying French food while visiting Quebec, I pulled over. The health inspector came out of the mysterious building with darkened windows; she was a young, friendly American who greeted me with a smile and a “How ya doin?” We proceeded to unpack the contents of my grocery bag on the hood of my car. The HI examined the ingredients list of each item closely. Apparently, there is a ban on bringing sheep, goat or I-forget meat into the U.S. She was intrigued by my terrine de caribou (so was I, that’s why I bought it). Fortunately, there is not yet a ban on caribou. Santa is good to go on Christmas Eve… this year, anyway. :-\
The jars of duck looked pretty darned gross, with chunks of meat floating in globs of fat, but she had no problem with those. Products made in Quebec were also OK. It’s products from France that are cause for concern. You see, we don’t know how they process their meat over there; it may not be SAFE. She mentioned “avian flu” and “mad cow disease”. Yes, the French, known for their longevity and famed for their fine cuisine, with a culture that goes back 1000 years, just haven’t quite got down this whole animal husbandry thing yet.
Finally, she got to my Rosette de Lyon. It bore the damned inscription “MADE IN FRANCE”. “I’m sorry, but I’m going to have to check this out. Come inside, please.”
So I got to enter the creepy building that designates the arbitrary geopolitical line that separates US from THEM. There were a surprising number of other people in there, pulled over for who knows what specious reasons. I sat in silence, fearing for my saucisson.
After about five minutes, the friendly HI came back and said apologetically “I’m sorry, but I can’t find this on an approved list; I can’t let you bring it into the U.S.” I pointed out, truthfully, that that’s the one product I KNOW is actually available for sale in the U.S. (it’s just not financially worth it for me to pay to have it shipped from San Francisco). I wondered how, even if by some astronomically remote chance, it *was* infected with mad bovine flu, it would hurt anyone but me if I ate it? I mentally noted that I will probably get back to Lyon, France approximately, oh, let’s see, NEVER, and that the mother of my ex-husband will more than likely NOT be sending me a care-package any time soon. In desperation, I asked the girl if I could at least have a TASTE of my saucisson; I’d been waiting YEARS to buy that thing. She got a pained expression on her face and shrugged.
This is ridiculous on so many levels. The U.S. government is looking out for my health by preventing me from eating potentially infected meat. Well, for crissakes, I’m obviously not eating it for my health… it’s FUCKING SAUSAGE!!! It’s full of saturated fat and salt and nitrates and is a future heart attack wrapped in a pigskin sheath. They let me keep the one that was made in Quebec, and only took the one that was made in France.
Ironically, when I had first pulled up to the guardpost, the guard had asked me to confirm my license plate number so he could type it into the R-U-A-TERRIST database. My license plate is an acronym for “There ain’t no such thing as a free lunch.” Well, the guards got a free lunch that day; I’m surprised they didn’t bogart some of my cheese to go with it.
Wrote a song for my lost, beloved saucisson. Wanna hear it? Here it is.
[to be sung to the tune of Pearl Jam's "Last Kiss"]
The USA Took My Sausage Away
Oh, where, oh where can my sausage be?
Border guards took it away from me
It’s back in Canada, I left it behind
Its fatty goodness won’t leave my mind.
Oooooooooh
Whoooooooah
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